The holidays are upon us! It’s bijna (almost) Christmas. So, here’s your survival guide to celebrating winter holidays in the Netherlands.
You may be new to the Lowlands and feeling a bit confused about all the celebrations that people are chatting about. Some are about to happen, some have already happened, and we think it’s high time to test your knowledge on Christmas in the Netherlands.
How does Christmas begin?
To me, it all starts with Sint Maarten at the beginning of November.
You might have run into a crowd of grubby children holding paper lamps, walking along the streets, knocking on doors, and demanding candy while singing, “11 November is de dag, dat mijn lichtje, dat mijn lichtje branden mag” (11 November is the day that my light, that my light may shine bright).
But no, Halloween has little to do with it.
Sint Maarten in the Netherlands
Sint Maarten is celebrated mostly in the southern Catholic provinces of the Netherlands, such as Limburg, and those adjacent to Germany.
This day commemorates Saint Martin of Tours, who was a bishop from Gaul (modern-day France).
While Martin of Tours was a soldier in the Roman army, he performed a famous act of charity that quickly became the most-repeated story of his life.
Back in 340 AD, as Martin approached the city gates of Amiens, he met a beggar dressed in rags.
Impulsively, Martin cut his military cloak in half and gave one piece to the man (the other half belonged to the Roman Empire).
That night, Martin dreamt of Jesus wearing the donated cloth and saying to the angels, “Martin, who is still but a catechumen, clothed me with this robe.”
Fast-forward to now, on the night of Sint Maarten, little children walk together holding lamps and giving away fruit and candy to remember the generosity of Sint Maarten.
Sinterklaas in the Netherlands
Roughly a week after Sint Maarten, on the first Saturday after November 11, another famous saint, Saint Nicholas (better known as Sinterklaas), makes his grand entrance into the Netherlands.
He arrives from Spain on a steamboat full of presents and mandarins.
I still don’t understand why the Sint decided the Iberian Peninsula would be “home” if he is supposed to be a Turkish bishop.
But I guess, like many Dutch citizens, he thought Spain was a great place to retire.
Anyhoo, after great anticipation (from the children), Saint Nicholas is welcomed with a parade.
News outlets closely follow his arrival and city visits, during which he is accompanied by his controversial helpers, the Pieten. They deliver presents, mandarins, and spice cookies, while also spying on children and pulling pranks every chance they get.
I don’t think there is another country that takes make-believe to such a high level.
READ MORE | Zwarte Piet: the full guide to the Netherlands’ most controversial tradition
There is even a TV programme dedicated to the daily activities of Sinterklaas, so everyone can participate in the collective fantasy.
At my daughter’s school, Rommel (messy) and “disco” Piet made a visit. As we arrived at school one morning, all the lights were off, dance music was blasting, chairs were upside down, and everything was out of place.
The kids get super into it, expecting little treats at all times, leaving their shoes by the window every night, and blaming all kinds of happenings (like missing things) on Piet.
All these shenanigans take place during the three weeks between November 15 and December 5.
Pakjesavond in the Netherlands
Pakjesavond (evening of presents) is celebrated on December 5.
A loud thump is heard outside the door, and when you open it, a big burlap bag appears. Surprise, surprise! It’s full of presents. 🎁
Families gather to eat spice cookies, drink hot chocolate, and open presents. Some families also dedicate Sinterklaas poems to each other, making (harmless) jokes about one another’s qualities.
Christmas decorations in the Netherlands
Please be aware that no Christmas tree or other Christmas decorations are “allowed” to be set up until after Sinterklaas has left, that is, after December 5.
Some people take this very seriously. It is considered rude, disrespectful, and impolite to even dare think of Christmas until all the Sinterklaas craziness is over.
Only by December 6 does the whole country finally start preparing for Christmas and the New Year.
But if you thought Christmas Eve was a thing, you would be wrong. December 24 is still a normal day for the Dutch. For most companies, it is still a regular working day.
If you are Catholic, the traditional mass will take place, but other than that, NOTHING happens on the 24th.
Christmas Day in the Netherlands
Christmas is on December 25, but the Dutch refer to this as the First Day of Christmas. This is the day when families gather, have dinner together, and exchange presents.
There is, however, no turkey, no fruitcake, or any complicated dish.
Practical as they are, Dutchies traditionally eat something they call gourmetten, which might leave you puzzled.
READ MORE | Gourmetten: A ‘gezellige’ evening of classic Dutch dining
It is a “make your own dinner” kind of meal in which they take out their electric raclette plank and share a meal of grilled meat, cheese, veggies, and assorted sauces. That’s it.
If you really want a turkey, you can order it in advance from your local butcher.
Second Christmas in the Netherlands
Then comes the Second day of Christmas in the Netherlands, which is on December 26.
This is when you normally spend time with the other side of the family, but it strikes me as weird that they still think it is Christmas because, to me, Boxing Day is when you just chill at home.
If you are Mexican, eat recalentado (warmed-up leftovers from Christmas Eve) and maybe try to score some sales.
I mean, by then, Jesus (if you are a believer) had already been born for two days! You don’t celebrate someone’s birthday two days after the actual event, do you?
But I guess this is just another facet of the Dutch ability to compromise, to polder, to try and avoid the ultimate yearly conflict every family has to face: “With whom do we spend Christmas this year?” 🎄
New Year’s Eve in the Netherlands
After Christmas comes a week of calm and peace.
You can visit museums, stay at home, and rejoice in the fact that darkness is slowly going away and days are starting to get longer while you wait for the New Year — that moment when everyone rushes to make a subscription at the gym and start fresh and clean.
READ MORE | New Year’s Eve in the Netherlands: traditions in Amsterdam and beyond
As for celebrating, there are some parties, mostly at hotels, and other events, but you need to make a reservation in advance, unlike other countries, where you would just go out clubbing to drink away the old year and start anew. 🍾
In years past, the Dutch bought loads of fireworks, as it was the only day of the year when people could burst their own fireworks.
As for traditional food, you shouldn’t miss oliebollen, a fried ball of dough, best eaten warm, sometimes with raisins or other fillings, sprinkled with powdered sugar.
You will see street stands for oliebollen that pop up pretty much everywhere. You can find them at bakeries, and you can even try to make them at home with the ready-made dough that exists for that very purpose.
After all the celebrations, it will be January and a brand new year. 🥳
Which Dutch traditions have you adopted, and which ones have you imported from your country? Tell us in the comments!
Nice article! Mostly correct, apart from the New Years Eve celebrations. It’s actually a huge thing where people get together withdraw family and friends, drink all night long, light fireworks (literally EVERYWHERE), go out to party, eat Oliebollen and basically wake up on the 2th of January:).
Yes, what I tried to convey is that, in my experience, they party -mostly- at home, if you would look for a restaurant chances are they might be closed. And yes, I forgot about the Oliebollen and the fireworks, how could I ? That part has been added now.
Saint Nicolas was not Turkish! There weren’t any Turkish at 230AD. He was a Greekorthodox Bishop.
Yes, technically you are right, as he was a bishop of Myra in Asia Minor and Turkey did not exist. What I meant though was that said city would be located in modern-day Demre, in (today’s) Turkey. I thought it would be clear, sorry for the imprecision.
At Sint Maarten children do not give away fruit and candy. They go door by door in small group, mostly accompanied by parents or older children, with their mostly home made lampions ( an english word also), sing special Sint Maarten songs and are given fruit or candy. Sint Maarten and Sinterklaas have nothing to do with Christmas and New Year. They are not in any say connected to Christmas and New Year
yes we fix it builder we do fix yes
Present giving on Christmas Day? My partner says they don’t do presents after 5 December so as a new Dutchie I need to know if that’s correct…. Or is this just his Dutch frugality..
There never used to be presents at Christmas. 5 December was the time when people exchanged presents. It’s only in recent years that some people give presents at Christmas. Sinterklaas in Netherlands has nothing to do with Christmas.