No matter how many times I tell my friends I live in Haarlem, every time we chat, they ask — “So how is life in Amsterdam?” Haarlem, people, Haarlem! Trust me, there is so much more to the Netherlands than Amsterdam.
We stumbled upon the Spaarnestad (city on the river Spaarne) one sunny, summery Saturday morning. With its bustling market and happy, chatty people wandering and cycling all across its cobbled streets, Haarlem cast a bit of her magic on us.
So, in mid-2018, we made Haarlem our home, and we have no regrets.
It’s well-connected for travel
Haarlem is the capital of Noord-Holland and it will take you about 20 minutes to reach by train from Amsterdam. With something like 148 trains per day, though, it is an easy commute. 🚆
From Haarlem, you can wiggle your toes on the beach in less than 30 minutes, depending on your mode of transport and preferred coastal stretch. Oh yes, you actually have a choice.
READ MORE | Public transport in the Netherlands: the complete guide
If you wish to work outside of Haarlem, the commute to Leiden, Den Haag, Rotterdam, and Utrecht takes at most an hour, with excellent public transport links.
For any international journeys, you can be checked into your flight at Schiphol in under 30 minutes — if you go to the airport by car, that is.
It boasts idyllic and colourful nature
This charming city is, of course, the gateway for visiting the tulip fields and Keukenhof during the flower season in spring.
There’s also the river Spaarne running languidly through Haarlem, a top spot for an evening picnic on the banks during summer. Oh, and borrel cruises on the water. 😍
READ MORE | The Dutch and tulips: how did tulips in the Netherlands become a thing?
The city of Haarlem dates back to 1245, so the charming aesthetic, narrow cobbled streets, hofjes, and green spaces are no surprise.
Its infamous ‘little city’ status and vibe
I often hear Haarlem described as a little city. As it is one of the most densely inhabited metropolitan areas in Europe, this reference is more of an interpretation of its village-like vibe than its populace.
READ MORE | 16 Haarlem museums that are well worth a visit
This city’s pièce de résistance? St. Bavo Kerk (Church St. Bavo) on Grote Markt (Central Square). The former is not to be confused with the St. Bavo Cathedral, though, an equally imposing grand lady with her ornate copper dome. 😉
Grote Markt’s weekly markets are the city’s beating heart. There are exciting events yearly, such as the Bloemencorso (flower parade), Haarlem Jazz & More, Haarlem Cullinaire, and Haarlemse Stripdage.
It has a diverse demographic and language
Around 67% of Haarlem’s residents are Dutch, although the international community is steadily growing. Compared to Amsterdam, Haarlem may come across as a sleepy hollow since it is not as diverse, colourful, quirky, and edgy as the Dutch capital.
However, Haarlem is often called little Amsterdam, which I feel undermines the unique and pleasant character of my hometown.
READ MORE | 21 beautiful towns in the Netherlands that aren’t Amsterdam
Like most of the Netherlands, it is easy to get by in English, but if you want to integrate and speak Dutch this is the perfect place to learn.
Dutch, spoken in Haarlem, is called Algemeen Beschaafd Nederlands (general decent Dutch) or ABN for short. ABN simply means it is one of the easiest Dutch accents to understand — leuk!
It’s bursting with culture and activities
After living here for a while, I’ve come to appreciate the various cultural and entertainment activities on offer.
For theatre and music, there is the Stadschouwburg & Philharmonie (municipal theatre and philharmonic), as well as the theatre & film house called Toneelschuur & Filmschuur.
READ MORE | 18 charming things to do in Haarlem
On the other hand, De Pletterij offers more fringe music and serious debates. And their neighbour, De Werelkeuken has new Haarlemmer chefs that offer a unique experience of global cuisine with little tastes of the homes they left behind.
Music and comedy
Quite a few pubs and cafés in Haarlem have a live music line-up. Both the Haarlem Comedy Club and the Haarlem Comedy Factory will tickle your funny bone with a varied bill of Dutch and international comedians.
This little city also hosts many significant events such as De Houtfestival (which I love due to its family-friendly and green vibe) and the massive Bevrijdingspop.
One of my favourite food festivals in Haarlem is Proefpark in August — a delicious, family-friendly foodie’s delight.
It’s family-friendly
Haarlem is a family-friendly city. There is certainly no scarcity of clubs and events for children, both weekly and ongoing — Kidsproof Haarlem is a brilliant resource.
One of my favourite autumn events is the Lichtjestocht, which takes place in October in the national park Zuid-Kennemerland. You amble through the dunes after sunset, with only lanterns (battery-operated ones for safety, of course) to guide the way.
And on those cold, rainy days in the Netherlands, Haarlem offers a wide choice of museums and art galleries to peruse.
It has shops to drop for
Haarlem is ‘the place to shop’ with its extensive range of big brands and quirky independent shops, especially the Goude Straatjes (Little Golden Streets).
Speaking of independent shops, there are a few shop owners known for their eccentric natures, making it quite the experience to enter their world. Every Thursday, there is a koopavond (shopping evening) when many shops are open till 9 PM.
Just ten minutes walk from the station, you are in one of the longest retail streets in the Netherlands. Generaal Cronjé Straat, or the Cronjé, as it is affectionately known by the locals, offers a retro shopping experience.
It has the best coffee and dining scene
Haarlem is proud of its gastronomical flair and diverse cuisine choices — from cosy cafés to hip coffee bars to romantic and family-friendly restaurants or even fine dining.
It’s fair to say as a self-proclaimed coffee snob, I am spoiled for choice. 😇
My vote of where to go for the best coffee in Haarlem is Native, Ax Speciality Coffee, Cleeff, Mogador, Mica Coffee Bar, By Lima, and Het Koffie Kantoor. But this topic is worthy of an article by itself!
It’s a stone’s throw from beaches
Haarlem’s beachy neighbours are a big drawing card. Whether you cycle or take the train, numerous beaches are easily accessible. As a local, my favourite is Parnassia aan Zee, which can be easily reached by bike or car.
To get to the wonderful Zandvoort aan Zee, jump on bus 80 or take the train, which goes every 30 minutes. Bloemendaal aan Zee is another great option and can be reached within 20 minutes with bus 81.
Alternatively, one 12-minute cycle south of Zandvoort aan Zee, and one big dune climb, there’s Zuidstrand 7 — a nudist beach. But you don’t have to partake in the nudism to enjoy this Zuidstrand 7’s tranquillity and serenity.
READ MORE | Best beaches in the Netherlands: the ultimate guide to Dutch beaches
It also boasts the wonderfully unconventional and cosy strandpaviljoen, Fosfor. Here, we’ve spent many happy hours swinging in the hanging chair, sipping on cocktails, and nibbling delicious bites. 🌊
It offers an array of nature hotspots
Haarlem’s national park Zuid-Kennemerland offers superb choices for the nature lover, the runner, the hiker, and the cyclist alike.
Spending time at the small inland lakes and recreational areas such as ‘t Wed, Westbroekplas, Meerwijkplas, Veerplas, and Molenplas is a must, especially with children.
On the banks of Veerplas is the cheerful Het Veerkwartier, a delightful café with a variety of events on offer.
Additionally, Haarlem boasts two luscious urban forests, De Haarlemmerhout and Elswout. De Hout is where we spend hours exploring the Netherlands’ oldest urban forest, while Elswout is a great place to check out a wonderful children’s theatre.
READ MORE | Hiking in the Netherlands: 4 myths, busted
A short bike ride south of Haarlem and you reach the magical Wandelbos Groenendaal with a kinderboerderij (petting farm) and a large speeltuin (playground).
Speaking of speeltuinen, parents are spoilt with choice, with lovely playgrounds dotted all over Haarlem.
Have you visited Haarlem? Tell us what you love about it in the comments below!
My Oma was born in Haarlem, married my Opa in Haarlem. My mother grew up in Zandvoort, my aunt lived above her shop in Heemstede and died in Haarlem. My great aunts and a great uncle all lived in Vogelenzang. My uncle’s wife’s sister lived in Haarlem. I have a lot of reasons to love Haarlem. It’s a great place. Love it.❤️
Marijke, what a lovely family connection to Haarlem! Thank you for sharing.
Ah, Haarlem. I/we have visited this wonderful city 3 times now and we have a very fond memory and what compelled me to write this, was the memory is all about the Friethuis in the picture. A few years ago i brought my wife here while visitng friends in Amsterdam. Along with a visit to St. Bavos and Franz Hals Museum, we stooped at the Freithuis and indulged ourselves in a cone of friets. We’ll never have friets as good as they were. Thank you for the article about Haarlem.
My mother was born in Haarlem and lived there with my Oma and Opa during the occupation in WW II. My father was in the US Army and married my mother there shortly after the war. I wish I could share a marriage photo of them that I have in front of her home on Orionweg across from Zaanenpark. They were a handsome couple. I flew from Oregon in the USA and visited Haarlem in 2015, staying for one month.
Fantastic !! My daughter send it ! Hubby and I are both (he’s born n raised there)from Haarlem (me ijmuiden)so we know de “stad”well ! It’s still beautiful n it’s surroundings !
Loved your article. I’ll be in Harleem on 23 April with friends, and felt inspired.
Saving this article.
By visiting the nude beach while staying dressed you disturb our local culture. If you don’t like getting naked on the Zandvoort nude beach please go somewhere else. Plenty of beaches to go!
I miss Haarlem very much. Although it has changed a lot, demographically. Seems like the working class has disappeared and now I only see and hear “potato in the troath” kind of people in the inner city.
Haarlem, for me, is way out kf reach because of the insane housing prices. I have fond memories of Haarlem but the town I said goodbye to 20 years ago, is gone. Only for the people who are well to do.